Volunteer and Adoption Applications

YOU ARE APPRECIATED!!

Everything you do, no matter how small or large matters.  Without you and the other volunteers in this rescue, doggies would not be saved.

General Guidelines for Fosters

Please read & Review the following important guidelines:

1.     Prior to fostering, all foster homes must complete an on-line Foster Application and be approved.

2.     All foster homes agree to accept primary responsibility for providing lodging and care of their foster dog until a permanent adopting family is found.

3.     Medical care will be provided only via a Florida Doggie Paw Representative.  If you think your foster dog needs any medical care, including vet visits or over the counter medications, please contact your Florida Doggie Paws Rescue representative before acting.

4.     Foster Homes are asked to keep their FDPR contact apprised of their foster dogs behavior and if any issues arise.  If they are not handling the dog at an adoption event they should give basic information to board members.

5.     FDPR will supply the foster food for the foster dog.

6.     Foster Homes are not required to foster any dog that they do not wish to foster. However, there may not be an immediate alternate foster home for your dog. We will work on moving your foster dog out as soon as possible, but ask for your understanding as we work on it.

7.     Only those dogs that have received prior approval for fostering and are deemed adoptable by the Board and intake coordinator can be fostered within FDPR’s Foster Program. Volunteers and/or Foster Homes are not authorized to pull dogs directly from the shelter.

8.     All applicants for a particular Foster Dog must go through the Florida Doggie Paw Rescue application process (online application, interview by a board member or an applications volunteer. If a friend or family member of the Foster Home wishes to adopt your Foster Dog, that’s great! But, the adopter must go through the same process as other applicants.

9.      Your own dogs should be current with their vaccinations. We also recommend that you vaccinate your dogs with a Bordetella

Vaccination to prevent kennel cough, a common illness with shelter dogs.

10.                        Florida Doggie Paws Rescue is not responsible for any veterinary bills for resident dogs. The Foster Home assumes responsibility for any veterinary bills that result from resident dogs becoming ill due to exposure with a Foster Dog.

11.                        If you are planning a vacation, please notify FDPR as far in advance as you can. We will need at least 2 weeks to arrange for alternative placement for your foster dog. If you want to take your foster dog with you, even for just a weekend, you MUST notify FDPR beforehand. If FDPR has an applicant interested we may make arrangements to keep your dog locally to be able to show him/her.

12.                        Do not leave your dog with anyone else without prior approval from FDPR. Anytime a foster dog is left we MUST have a signed release of liability.

Getting your home & family ready for fostering

Fostering is a commitment that will affect your entire household: your

family, your permanent-resident pets, and your house and yard itself! Here

are some tips to ensure that fostering will be a positive experience for you

and your family.

Discuss your plans with other family members and get their input on how to

make it work out best for everyone. Include in the discussion what kind(s) of

dogs are appropriate for your household: small/large, young/old, active/not

active. Do you thrive on a spunky dog with lots of energy that is a willing

playmate for your active dog? Or, do you have an older dog that would

appreciate not being pestered? How long are you gone during the day? We’ll

need to match you with a dog that works with your schedule. You’ll need a

dog that fits your lifestyle, even if he/she is only a temporary resident. Your

FDPR representative can work with you to ensure that we understand

your personal situation and what types of dogs are appropriate for you.

Supplies

You should have the following on hand before your foster dog arrives:

Food & water bowls: it is best to have separate bowls for your foster

dog, and, to feed your resident dogs & foster dog separately so that

they can eat in a stress-free environment as they are getting to know

each other.

Food & Treats: We will advise you as to what kind of food or treats is best for your foster. Food is provided by FDPR but not the treats. We occasionally have some supplies donated to the rescue.  These will be distributed based on needs.

Dog Crate: We strongly recommend you have a crate for your foster

dog. Crate training is a very helpful way to introduce a dog into a new

home. We can supply you with a crate if you do not have one, and

give you some excellent articles on crate training if you are unfamiliar

with it.

Bed: Cotton blankets or large beach towels are best as they are

washable and less likely to be chewed up by your foster dog.

Toys: Kongs are excellent for stuffing—they will keep your foster dog

occupied, especially while you are away from the house. Stuffed toys

or balls are also great, depending on your dog’s temperament. Florida Doggie Paws can sometimes provide these depending on our donations.

Collar & leash: We will provide a collar and leash for your dog. A

Smiley Dog Rescue ID tag will be on your dog’s collar as well. This collar and tag should stay on at all times as it will help ensure the dog is returned to Florida Doggie Paws Rescue if the dog ever gets out and is picked up by the shelter.

Dog Introductions

Introduce your resident dogs to the foster dog on neutral territory, at a park or down the street from your house, for example. Introduce them on leash, with an adult holding each leash. Allow a quick “hello” sniff or walk-by, and then separate them, even if things seem fine. This gives them a chance to think about things, and often, they will then seek each other out to get a lengthier greeting. Give lots of positive reinforcement so that both dogs feel safe and that the other dog is a friend, not a foe. If one dog gets aggressive, separate them quickly, comfort the dogs, and slow down the pace of the introductions.

Don’t force things if they are not immediate best friends; sometimes it takes a few days for dogs to accept each other. Sometimes, dogs just don’t like each other. By giving them each attention separately, and making them feel safe about their bed, toys, and food, you can minimize any tension.

Getting along

Dogs are pack animals. There is usually one who dominates. Correction of one dog by another (whether it is your resident dog or the foster) is normal. As long as the dogs are responding positively to each other and seem to recognize the “pecking order”, this is fine. So, one dog may growl at another. If the dog reacts by moving away or showing passivity, then usually, the dogs will get along fine. If they are constantly battling for the “alpha” position, then they will have to be separated, and may not be a good fit for each other.

Never leave the dogs unsupervised together. They are still getting to know one another, and will need correction on appropriate behavior toward each other, which means supervision. If you are leaving the house, then crate the dogs or otherwise physically separate them.

Again, feed the dogs separately. This reduces stress for everyone. Food aggression between dogs is common.

Cat Introductions

First, make sure that your cat has his/her own sanctuary—preferably a room where the foster dog will not be allowed to go. If you can keep the cat’s food & litter box in this room, and keep the door closed, then the dog & cat can sniff each other under the door for a few days before meeting face to face. This will make things go a lot smoother, as they will most likely feel they have already “met.” Supervise the dog’s behavior even at the door, reinforce playful, curious behavior and correct any aggression or obsession.

When introducing the dog & cat for the first time, put the dog on a leash & just allow the cat to walk by if he/she wants to. Here, you’re looking to evaluate both the dog & the cat. Is the cat fearful or curious? Is the dog happy/playful or chomping at the bit?

Working with your foster dog

While your foster dog is living with you, you can provide some basic training along with lots of tender loving care. No formal training regime is needed for most foster dogs, but if you can work on the following, it will make your foster dog much more “adoptable.”

q       Socializing is definitely the first priority. This means ensuring that

your foster dog is acclimated to meeting new people, dogs, cats, children, as wide a group as possible. If you have a shy dog, this is a big task, and should be approached slowly (but all the more important to address it so that your dog overcomes his/her shyness.) With a more outgoing dog, it’s more about curbing enthusiasm so that people aren’t overwhelmed upon meeting the dog (or knocked over with love!)

q       Food aggression with other dogs is a fairly common trait, however food aggression towards people is not acceptable. If your foster dog is growling when you are near his food, you need to work on correcting this behavior. Hand-feed the dog, so that it’s clear the food is yours, and you are the giver of food. Then, when feeding with a bowl, take it away several times during the meal, giving it back after the dog sits & waits politely. With a non-food aggressive dog, these are still good tips, along with taking chewies away & giving them back. If the dog growls a bit, tell them “no”, and then practice taking it until they get the idea. Repeat daily. If your foster dog is showing food aggression with your dog over food or chews, always feed them separately. Another good reason to crate your foster dog, as you can use that place as a safe place to give treats, chews, and toys.

q       House training (potty training) is definitely desirable for both you and the future adopter. The best way to house train is to use a crate, and to be vigilant about taking the dog outside regularly, including after naps and meals. If a dog is particularly stubborn about house training, keep them on a leash in the house; this will prevent them from wandering off to hide to go potty.

q       Crate training is a great way not only to potty train, but also to establish general house manners since the dog will not be roaming free in the house unless he/she is being supervised. So, no chewing on couch cushions, counter-surfing, or garbage can diving if the dog is to be left alone. We have more materials on crate training available to you.

q       Sitting is relatively easy to teach and pays big dividends. A dog that sits for his/her leash and food knows they are subservient to the person commanding them to sit. It also helps to get an overly excited dog under control.

q       Jumping up is a common problem with our foster dogs—they are so happy to have someone to love! But, it’s best if they are taught not to do this, since it can knock people over or just be rude. The best prevention is to see it coming and tell them to stop and sit. Once they have this down, they can be invited “up” for a visit, but only with an invitation.

q       Leash walking is challenging to teach. Many of our dogs have never been on a leash and have no idea how to behave. If you’re ambitious, you can work on “heal”, but even “easy” is fine. “Easy” is when the dog isn’t necessarily healing at your side, but they are also not dragging you down the street. This takes time to learn and patience on your part. A nervous dog may not be pulling but reluctant to walk or trying to get away from you and the leash. The goal then is to get the dog to relax and walk confidently with you. We can give you some pointers on either of these cases.

q       Squirt bottles can be a great way to get the point across to a dog that is not responding to a verbal correction. Fill a squirt bottle with plain water, and set the nozzle to stream (not spray.) A quick squirt in the face with a verbal command such as “no” or “down” at the same time can be very effective. It does not hurt the dog, but it catches them off guard and can be helpful in getting their attention. Generally, you can move to verbal commands only after a time.

Dogs & Children

Dogs and kids go together like peanut butter & jelly; they are great playmates, guardians, and confidants. But, children must learn proper handling and discipline, and dogs must learn self-control so that they do not play too rough.

Children must be supervised and taught that dogs are beings, not dolls or toys to dress-up or handled constantly. Teach children not to tease or rile up the dog unnecessarily. This includes chasing around the house, which can scare a dog, which may snap if cornered or frightened.

Make sure your children know that it is not the dog’s fault if the dog chews up toys that are left out. Keeping doors shut & toys in toy boxes can help minimize damage. Make sure the dog has his/her own toys, and keep them in the same place all the time (like in a basket, or in the dog’s crate.)

Children like the idea of caring for a dog, but the daily work of feeding, bathing, brushing, and cleaning up after the dog is not really suited for them. Recognize that the initial enthusiasm will wane quickly, and the true responsibility of caring for the dog will fall to the adults in the household. Young children should not walk foster dogs, as, even if the dog is easy to walk, the child cannot really handle any encounters with other dogs or cats that are bound to happen.

Children should not play unsupervised with foster dogs. For puppies, teach proper handling (pick up by the body, not the limbs), and limit interaction. Children need to be taught that a puppy’s mouthing is not biting, and that the puppy is not trying to hurt them. Perhaps most importantly, children must learn to properly discipline the foster dog/puppy (a sharp “no” or squirt with a water bottle). Children may think that squirting the dog is fun, and need to learn to only use it sparingly. Children often react to a dog’s bad behavior by hitting the dog, is unacceptable.

Fostering Puppies

Welcome to the team of dedicated puppy Rescue Volunteers! Puppies under the age of 8 weeks need a mother- either a dog or a human surrogate. They are very vulnerable in a shelter and the chance to get them into a foster home within 24 hours is a chance to save their lives. The following guidelines will help you with the care of your puppies and will help you understand the policies and procedures of the foster care program. Please keep the following items on this list in mind before you agree to bring foster animals into your home.

·         A foster animal could potentially carry illness into your home that could affect your resident animals' (or humans') health.

·         To protect people, young children should not handle the foster puppies and everyone should wash their hands after handling animals and their fecal waste.

·         To protect other dogs, foster animals should be separated from household pets for at least two weeks. This means that you should also prohibit the sharing of food and water bowls and toys.

·         Puppies should be de-flead before they enter your home and as often as necessary to keep fleas off of them, because fleas can spread disease among your other animals and to people.

·         You should wash your hands with soap and water before handling your own animals or children and you may also want to change clothes.

·         You should routinely disinfect the foster puppies quarters and disinfect the entire premised before new puppies are introduced.

·         The best way to disinfect the area is to remove all organic material and fecal debris and then soak with a mild bleach solution (1 part bleach to 32 parts water) for at least 30 minutes. All surfaces, bowls, toys etc need to be disinfected (so you probably want to keep puppies in a room without carpeting, hardwood floors and so forth).

·         It is best to have only litter at a time (rear the puppies in cohort groups) rather than constantly adding new puppies in with others. Keeping them in cohorts allows you to prevent disease mixing among cohorts and to disinfect between groups.

·         It is possible even with these precautions that resident dogs could be exposed to mild infections such as URI. Ask the foster coordinator for more information if this is a concern.

Supplies you will need before you bring home puppies

·         Box or carrier - You may want to use the carrier in which you took the litter home. It will provide a familiar smelling, dark, quiet home for your foster puppies. However, a bigger box may be desirable, as it will allow you to see in, as well as provide plenty of room for the mother and the new, growing litter of puppies.

·         Newspapers - Keep several layers in the bottom of the box, and they will come in handy when the puppies start to roam around the room.

·         Water bowls Heavy and impossible to tip. Should be stainless steel or porcelain/ceramic, NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect because it is so porous.

·         Food bowls (at least 2)-One is for the eat-at-will dry food, the other for canned food. You can use TV dinner trays, paper plates or whatever you have; any relatively flat plate or saucer will do. The larger the litter, the larger the plate should be so that no one gets crowded out.

·         Food - You should have both dry puppy chow, canned dog food (any brand for adults or puppies), and all-meat baby food (must not contain vegetables or onion powder). Offer several choices to weaned puppies to determine their preferences.

·         Heating pad, hot water bottle, or infrared lamp unless the nursery is at least 85° and your puppies are 2 weeks or older, you need to supply extra heat. BE SURE THAT THE PUPPIES HAVE ROOM TO MOVE AWAY FROM THE HEAT (leave room for mom if she is with them). For instance, if you are using a heating pad, place it under a towel so that it covers only half of the floor area of their box. The heating pad should be on "low" or "medium." If you use a hot water bottle, keep it where dog can't destroy it.

·         Clean towels and blankets

·         Toys Plastic, disinfectable toys are good to reuse for new litters. Clean tennis balls and old stuffed socks, caps work well.

·         Scale Although not critical to success, a food or postal scale will be very helpful in monitoring small puppies growth, which can be variable among breeds.

Caring for a Pregnant Female

If you are fostering a pregnant dog during her final week of pregnancy, it is important to remember she may not have a big appetite because the puppies are crowding her internal organs. Feed her several small meals daily, rather than one or two larger meals. Leave water out at all times and remember that food requirements increase for pregnant dogs.

Prepare an area for the mother to have her puppies. Make it a dry, warm, relatively dark and out-of-the-way place, and put Mom in it. If she doesn't want to stay in it, don't insist, but you can encourage her by petting her and giving her little food treats. If your nursery room is not that warm, you can make it warmer by wrapping a heating pad in a towel, setting it on "low," and placing it under HALF of the nursery area so that the mother and puppies can remove themselves from the heat source if they choose. One word of warning: you might consider wrapping duct tape or a cord protector around the cord, as some puppies tend to chew them!

The birth of puppies, or kindling

The majority of dogs give birth with no problem or need for outside help. Before delivery, the female may become irritable and restless. She will search for a place to have her puppies. Lead her to the designated nursing area. If she has her puppies outside of the pre-assigned area, let her. When she is completely done with the delivery, move them all into designated area.

Many dogs want you to stay with them, and will try to follow you if you leave. You will probably have to spend some time with this kind of dog soothing her. Often after the birth of the first couple of puppies, she will be very busy and not so dependent on your presence. Other bitches will try to get away from you and hide. Give her the space she needs, but keep checking in on her regularly. It is quite possible that you will miss the birth process entirely. You might wake up one morning or come home from work to find the new family born, dry, and nursing.

Stages of canine labor

The first stage may take 12 hours, during which the bitch may begin to act restlessly. She may become very active, and appear to be uncomfortable, sometimes whining loudly.

In the second stage, the water breaks, and straw colored fluid is passed. A puppy will be delivered a few minutes later. The female will lick the puppy clean and bite through the umbilical cord. She is bonding with her puppies through this process, and learning to recognize them as her own. Do not disturb her. It may look as if her treatment is too rough, but she is actually stimulating breathing and blood circulation. Puppies should begin nursing between subsequent births.

In the final stage, the placenta follows a few minutes after delivery of a puppy. The mother will probably eat some or all of the placentas. Puppies are born anywhere from minutes to hours apart, so most deliveries can take a significant amount of time. Litter sizes can be variable depending on the breed. Larger litters of 10 or more are possible.

If a puppy is not born within 2 hours and the mother appears to be continually straining or in distress, call a veterinarian immediately. She may need a Cesarean or a drug called oxytocin to stimulate contractions. If the mother is content and happy, she is probably finished, though there have been cases in which a dog resumed delivery sometime later.

General Care of Puppies

1. No fostered animals should be allowed outside for the first few weeks. When outside, the puppies should be kept in a secured area and under direct supervision.

2. Young puppies should be kept in a large box or kennel lined with a towel for easy cleaning. It is very important to keep the puppies warm, and a heating pad is ideal for this. The heating pad should be placed under HALF of the towel (so they can move away from the heat if they need to) and set on "low." The more puppies in your litter, the better able they will be to keep warm by sleeping together in a heap. Small litters and singletons need more help keeping warm. Keep puppies away from heaters or cold drafts.

3. If puppies are not urinating and defecating on their own (when they are less than 2 weeks old), they will need to be stimulated. This should be done every few hours (often right after feeding) by gently rubbing a warm wet paper towel on the puppy’s anus and genital area. They will pee and poop into the paper towel.

4. Keeping puppies clean
A mother works hard to keep her puppies clean, grooming them thoroughly to remove any sticky messes they may get into, such as food or feces. Keeping puppies clean in the absence of their mother can be a messy business, but it is extremely important.
A flea comb will get rid of dried feces in the fur. You can also stroke a puppy with a warm, damp cloth, using short strokes to mimic a mother's tongue. Be sure to dry him well so he can't chill.

5. Socializing
Any introductions of dogs to other dogs or cats to dogs should be made with great care and under constant supervision.
Part of your job is to convince the puppies that humans are kind and loving. Outgoing, friendly puppies can be cuddled and played with freely, after spending a day or so to accustom themselves to a comfy box in a quiet room. Shy puppies will need more encouragement. Try sitting on the floor with a puppy held against your chest, supported underneath, and facing outwards, so he can't see how big and scary you are. Stroke him and speak gently, telling him how cute and brave and fabulous he is (puppies love to hear that!).

6. General concepts of feeding
Commercially available puppy formula should be given at the puppy's body temperature, about 100 degrees. Once the can is opened or the powder reconstituted, unused formula should be kept refrigerated and discarded after 24 hours.

It is best to feed the puppies one-by-one, and on a counter-top - this allows them to feed with all four feet on the counter, and their heads level, much as they would if they were nursing from their mom. Some puppies prefer to nurse standing on their hind legs while holding the bottle. They will require a little support from you in this position. Gently open a puppy's mouth with one finger and place the tip of the nipple on his tongue. If he won't eat, try stroking him. Pull lightly on the bottle to encourage vigorous sucking. Be sure to tilt the bottle up slightly to prevent the puppy from inhaling too much air. Do not force the puppy to nurse, or allow him to nurse too fast. Avoid feeding a puppy while he is cradled on his back - if the fluid goes down the wrong way, it may end up in his lungs.

After each feeding, the puppy should be burped. Hold him against your shoulder and gently massage his back or pat it lightly.

Overfeeding is as dangerous as underfeeding puppies! Keep an eye on your puppies at feeding time and monitor how much each is eating. If you see signs of diarrhea, separate them until you find out which one is sick. Your puppies will generally regulate their own food intake. If they need more food, they may whine or suck on their littermates. A good indication that they are getting enough to eat is the size of their bellies - they should be filled out after a meal, but not bloated.

Maintaining Healthy Growth

Expectations and Care at Each Age

0-1 Weeks

·         Feeding: Bottle-feed 1/2 tablespoon formula every 2 - 3 hours. If the bitch is with the puppies, they should nurse vigorously and compete for nipples. Newborns can nurse up to 45 minutes at a time. Be sure to watch puppies nursing at least once a day, if the bitch will permit it. Check that everyone is nursing and that there isn't too much jockeying for position. A great deal of activity and crying could indicate a problem with milk flow, quality or availability. When the bitch reenters the box, there should be some fussing for only a few minutes before everyone has settled down to serious nursing.

·         Environment: The temperature of the nest box should be nice and warm: 85-90 degrees. Chilling is the number one danger to newborn puppies.

·         Behavior and training: At one week of age, the puppies should be handled minimally.
Puppies will sleep 90% of the time and eat the other 10%.

1-2 weeks

·         Feeding: Bottle-feed formula every 2 - 3 hours, until puppies are full but not bloated.

·         Environment: Floor temperature of the nest box should be 80 to 85 degrees.

·         Behavior and training: Ear canals open between 5 and 8 days. Eyes will open between 8 and 14 days. They open gradually, usually starting to open from the nose outward. All puppies are born with blue eyes, and initially no pupils can be distinguished from the irises - the eyes will appear solid dark blue.

·         Healthy puppies will be round and warm, with pink skin. If you pinch them gently, their skin should spring back. When you pick a puppy up, it should wiggle energetically and when you put it down near the mom it should crawl back to her. Healthy puppies seldom cry.

2-3 weeks

·         Feeding: Bottle-feed formula every 3-4 hours, until puppies are full but not bloated.

·         Environment: The floor temperature of the nest box should be 75 to 80 degrees.

·         Behavior and training: If there is a bitch, she will begin to spend larger periods of time out of the nest, though she will not go far from it.

·         Puppies begin to crawl around day 18 and can stand by day 21. They will begin to play with each other, biting ears, tails and paws even before their teeth have come in. Their milk teeth are cut during this period. They learn to sit and touch objects with their paws.

·         Puppies begin their socialization phase - they will be strongly influenced by the behavior of their mother for the next six weeks. To further socialize puppies, increase the amount of handling, and get them accustomed to human contact. It is important not to expose them to anything frightening; children may seem intimidating and should be supervised closely while visiting to ensure gentle handling.

3-4 weeks

·         Feeding: Bottle-feed formula every 4 hours, until puppies are full but not bloated. Puppies may start lapping from a bowl.

·         Environment: The floor temperature of the nest box should be 70 to 75 degrees from this point onward.

·         Behavior and training: Adult eye color will begin to appear, but may not reach final shade for another 9 to 12 weeks. Puppies begin to see well and their eyes begin to look and function like adult dogs' eyes. Puppies will start cleaning themselves, though their mother will continue to do most of the serious cleaning.

4-5 weeks

·         Feeding: Bottle-feed as needed to keep pups from crying with hunger. Puppies usually can drink and eat from a saucer by 4 weeks. Weaning should be done gradually. Introduce them to solid food by offering warmed canned food, mixed with a little water into gruel, in a shallow saucer. You can begin by placing one puppy by the plate of canned food gruel, and hoping for the best - if she starts eating, great! Her littermates will probably copy her and do the same. But without mom around to show them, many puppies do not have a clue about feeding time. The puppies will walk in it, slide in it, and track it all over the place. Sometimes one will begin lapping right away, and in its anxiety to consume as much as it can, it will often bite the edge of the plate. Some will prefer to lick the gruel from your fingers. Some will start licking your finger after they sniff it, then slowly lower your finger to the plate and hold it to the food. The puppies need to learn to eat with their heads bent down. Sometimes it takes two or three meals before they catch on. If they do not seem interested enough to even sniff your finger, try gently opening the puppies' mouth and rubbing a little of the food on their teeth. Hopefully then they will start licking your finger. If they're still not getting the idea, you can take a syringe (without a needle) and squirt a small amount of gruel directly into the back of their mouths.

·         If there is a bitch present, she will usually begin weaning by discouraging her puppies from nursing; however, some dogs (particularly those with small litters) will allow nursing until the puppies are old enough for permanent homes. Some nursing activity is the canine equivalent of thumb sucking, that is, for comfort only. Even if puppies appear to be nursing, they may not be getting all the nutrition they need from mom. Make sure they are eating food and gaining weight.

·         Be sure that the puppies have access to fresh water in a low, stable bowl.

·         Behavior and training: Begin housebreaking at four weeks. Use a pile of newspapers in a corner. After each feeding, place the puppy on the papers or outside for him to go to the bathroom. Be patient! He may not remember to do this every time, or may forget where to find the papers, but he will learn quickly. Be sure to give the puppies lots of praise when they first start using their papers or cry to go out. It is a good idea to confine the puppies to a relatively small space, because the larger the area the puppies have to play in, the more likely they will forget where the papers are. Keep the papers clean and away from their food.

5-6 weeks

·         Feeding: Feed gruel 4 times a day. Thicken gruel gradually. Introduce dry food and water. If you are fostering a litter with their mother, continue weaning. For reluctant eaters, try mixing any meat-flavored human baby food with a little water. The meat flavor is often more appealing to the picky eaters.

·         Behavior and training: At about five weeks, puppies can start to roam around the room, under supervision. The strongest, most curious puppy will figure out how to get out of the nest. The others will quickly follow.

6-7 weeks

·         Feeding: Should be eating dry food well. Feed the puppies at least three meals daily. If one puppy appears food-possessive, use a second dish and leave plenty of food out so that everyone is eating. Although they may not eat much at a single sitting, they like to eat at frequent intervals throughout the day.

·         Behavior and training: By this time, you have "mini-dogs." They will wash themselves, play games with each other, their toys, and you, and many will come when you call them. Be sure to take them to their papers or outside after meals, during play sessions, and after naps. These are the usual times that puppies need to eliminate.

7-8 weeks

·         Feeding: Offer dry food 3 - 4 times a day. Leave down a bowl of water for them to eat and drink at will. If you have a litter with a bitch, she should only be allowing brief nursing sessions, if any. DO NOT feed the puppies table scraps.

8+ weeks

·         Feeding: Offer dry food 2 times a day. Leave down a bowl of water for them to eat and drink at will.

·         Behavior and training: By the end of this week, prepare yourself to find them homes or return them to the facility where they came from. They are also old enough for early spay or neuter.

Keeping Puppies Healthy

A healthy puppy has bright eyes, a nice coat, and a plump belly. Younger puppies are content to sleep between feedings. As they approach 8 weeks they begin to spend more time playing. Normal body temperature for a puppy is 100 - 102.5. Unfortunately, puppies do become ill and sometimes die while being fostered, so it is important to take steps to prevent disease and treat it appropriately as soon as it appears.

A note about treating your puppy: In general, if you need to treat a puppy, try to medicate him in an impersonal way. If you hold the puppy in your lap to medicate him, he will associate being picked up with being medicated, and think the worst every time you go to cuddle him. It is better to put the puppy up on a countertop, maybe wrapping him in a towel to administer medication. It is also worthwhile to give extra praise to a young puppy after medicating him, as this will help ease the stress of the situation.

Recognizing illness when to call a veterinarian

If you have a sick puppy, you should always at least call a veterinarian and discuss the problem. They may advise you to come in or provide you with general advice over the phone.

One of the first steps you can take to evaluate your puppy's health is to take his temperature. To take the temperature of your puppy, you will need a regular human thermometer and some KY Jelly. Don't forget to shake down the mercury in the thermometer first. Then wipe KY on the thermometer and insert just the tip into the puppy's anus. Hold it there for at least a minute and then read. If the puppy's temperature is over 103 or under 99, it is important to call the veterinarian.

Before leaving a veterinary facility, always ask for a copy of the treatment sheet. Information on this sheet is important for future follow-up treatment.

If a foster puppy should die, you should keep the body cool but not frozen and transport it to the facility where it came from so that a full autopsy can be performed.

Abnormal signs to watch for in a puppy:

·         Continuous diarrhea

·         Continuous vomiting

·         Bleeding of any kind: nose, urine, stool

·         Any trauma: it by car, dropped, limping, stepped on, unconscious

Specific disease conditions in puppies Diarrhea

Diarrhea is common in puppies and is caused by parasites, viruses, bacteria, food changes, stress, overfeeding, and other causes. If the diarrhea is mild and the puppy is otherwise alert and playful, you can try giving it less food but more often, and if it is over 4 weeks old, you can add 1/8 teaspoon of Metamucil to the food to help get rid of the diarrhea. If the diarrhea is severe, lasts more than 3 or 4 feedings, or contains blood or obvious parasites, you should call a veterinarian and bring in as much as possible of the feces in a Ziploc bag.

One of the causes of diarrhea that may be detected by microscopic examination in coccidiosis, due to the protozoan Eimeria spp. This single celled parasite is most common in kittens, but occasionally found in adults. Treatment will consist of about ten days of medication in either liquid or pill form. If the symptoms of coccidiosis persist following treatment, an effort will be made to identify other possible causes of diarrhea.

Mites

Mange mites are tiny parasites, which live on the skin and hair follicles of puppies. Sarcoptic mites cause intense itching, noted by destructive scratching. Because mites are microscopic organisms your veterinarian will need to perform a skin scraping to diagnose their presence. Different types of treatment may then be prescribed depending on the type of mite that your puppy has.

Fading puppies

Once in a while, one or more puppies in a litter that were healthy and vigorous at birth will begin to "fade" after a week or two of life. They will stop growing; begin to lose weight, stop nursing and crawling. They may cry continuously and lose the ability to stay upright. The mother dog may push them out of the nest, where they often chill and starve to death. Puppies fade very quickly - they will not last 48 hours without veterinary care, and many will not recover even with intensive care.

Often there is no clear cause or reason for this condition - it has been linked to birth defects, environmental stress and infectious disease. Early veterinary treatment is imperative, but even with tube feeding, rehydration and monitoring, many, if not most, fading puppies will die.

Fleas

Fleas are insects that love to feed on puppies. Although each flea only consumes a small drop of blood, fleas commonly attack in large numbers and an infestation can literally lead to anemia and even death. It is essential that your home be free of fleas before bringing home a small puppy.

Often there is no clear cause or reason for this condition - it has been linked to birth defects, environmental stress and infectious disease. Early veterinary treatment is imperative, but even with tube feeding, rehydration and monitoring, many, if not most, fading puppies will die.

The Life Cycle of the Flea Adult fleas lay eggs, which usually drop off their animal host and accumulate in alarming numbers where the animal spends a lot of time. Doghouses, carpets, sofas and other such places are often good nesting grounds for flea eggs. Under ideal conditions, eggs hatch in 1 - 2 days or for 3 - 4 weeks before hatching. Flea eggs hatch into a larval stage, which feeds on debris and organic matter and lives freely in the environment outdoors or in your home. Larvae can be effectively treated with concentrated insecticides. The larvae can develop into adult fleas in 5 days. Adult fleas prefer furry animals, but may feed on people. The common flea is hardy; it can live up to 4 months without feeding, and has a life span of up to 2 years. Fleas feed on their animal hosts, but spend most of their time off the animal. For every flea that you see, there are probably at least 100 lurking somewhere else in your home. Fortunately, the adult flea is the most sensitive to flea products.

Good Reasons to Control Fleas If your foster puppy already has fleas, it is important to remove them without harming the dog. One safe way to remove fleas from very young puppies (less than 6 - 8 weeks) is daily flea combing. Animals may be allergic to fleas. A fleabite sets off a cycle of constant itching and scratching, and your dog or cat will begin to lose hair, especially around the tail. Scratching can severely damage an animal's skin, causing hot spots. A single fleabite can cause an allergic reaction, so flea control is essential in treating the affected dog or cat.

How to Control Fleas If your foster puppy already has fleas, it is important to remove them without harming the dog. One safe way to remove fleas from very young puppies (less than 6 - 8 weeks) is daily flea combing. If the puppy is less than 6 weeks old and is heavily infected, a flea bath may be necessary to save its life. The puppy must be warm at all times. Use warm water and immediately towel it dry afterwards. Then follow up with a warm hair dryer until the puppy is completely dry. Use a shampoo labeled as safe for puppies. You can also use flea powder mixed in equal amounts of talcum powder, or a 2.5 % carbaryl powder product. If the puppy is 4 Weeks old and 2 lbs or more Capstar can be given orally up to once a day to kill adults fleas. This product starts to work within 90 minutes and is effective against adult fleas for 4-6 hours. It does not have any affect on, eggs, larva, or other adult fleas in the puppies environment. If the puppy is older than 6 weeks, * you can use topical one-time/month applications available from a veterinarian. All bedding needs to be washed in hot soapy water as soon as fleas are spotted. The most effective way to remove eggs from the house is by using a vacuum cleaner. Placing flea powder, a piece of flea collar, or flea spray inside it should first treat the vacuum bag. The bag should be emptied immediately after vacuuming. To kill adults and larvae, the house can be treated with flea foggers or sprays, boric acid products, or other commercial products.

Ringworm

Ringworm is actually caused by a fungus, related to athletes’ foot. On people and dogs, ringworm is most often shaped in a regular ring. The dog's fur will fall out, leaving a round bare spot with a visible ring. Ringworm causes little distress and not an emergency, but it is contagious to cats, dogs, and people. If you or your pets contract ringworm, you will need to seek treatment from your doctor and veterinarian (respectively). Everything the puppies touched while in your home will need to be disinfected with a bleach solution (at least 1 part bleach to 32 parts water) for at least one hour contact time, as ringworm spores can easily spread among other dogs and re-infect their hosts. If you have fostered a litter with ringworm, you should wait four weeks before fostering a new litter.

Kennel cough

Kennel cough is an extremely contagious respiratory disease that is often seen in animal shelters. Puppies with kennel cough typically cough or sneeze, and have nasal discharge. Kennel cough is often very difficult for puppies to overcome and will require veterinary attention.

Vomiting

If your puppy is vomiting, it is possible that the puppy is eating his meals too quickly. You should watch him when he eats and not allow him to eat too much too quickly. If your puppy is over 4 weeks old you may mix a little Kaopectate (1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon) into his food. If your puppy vomits 2-3 times in a row, it should see a veterinarian.

Fostering Heartworm Positive Dogs

General Information on Heartworms

What is Heartworms?

Canine heartworm disease [also called dirofilariasis (dir-oh-filla-RYE-uh-sis) is a serious and potentially fatal disease of dogs. Long white worms, technically known as Dirofilaria immitis (dir-oh-fill-AY-riah im-MIGHT-iss), are the cause. Adult worms, which reach a length of 6 to 14 inches, live in the right side of the heart in the adjacent large blood vessels. A dog may have several hundred of them in its system, although the number is usually much less.

What does it do?

Large accumulations of adult worms impair circulation of the blood, which can result in serious damage to a dog's heart, lungs, liver, and kidneys. The important thing for dog owners to remember is that a great deal of damage can occur before any outward signs of heartworm disease is noticed. Although a dog can lead a nearly normal, healthy life with a few heartworms in its system, in advanced stages the disease may cause its victim to have difficulty breathing, cough, tire easily, become listless, lose weight or faint. If not detected and controlled with proper treatment, the disease can lead to congestive heart failure and death.

How does it get heartworms?

Mosquitoes spread heartworm infection. When a mosquito "bites" an infected dog, it takes up blood, which may contain microscopic immature forms of heartworms called microfilariae. The microfilariae incubate in the mosquito for about two weeks, during which they become infective larvae. Then, when the mosquito bites another dog, the infective larvae are passed into the second dog, infecting it. The infective larvae migrate through the tissues of the body for about three months, and then enter the heart where they reach adult size in another three months. The mosquito is the only natural agent of transmission for canine heartworms. As you might expect, heartworm infection is more common in areas where mosquitoes are numerous, and outdoor dogs constantly exposed to mosquitoes are the most frequent victims.

Treatment of HW positive dogs

Most dogs can be successfully treated for heartworms if the disease is detected early. The adult worms are killed with an organic arsenical drug given through a series of carefully administered injections. A few days after treatment, the worms die and are carried by the bloodstream to the lungs where they lodge in small blood vessels. There they decompose and are absorbed by the body over a period of several months. There is always some risk involved in treating a dog with heartworms. However, fatalities resulting from treatment are rare among dogs that are otherwise in good general health. The patient should be given a thorough physical and laboratory examination prior to treatment, and any other problems that might cause complications should be corrected before heartworm treatment begins. Following treatment, complete rest is needed to prevent lung damage from the dead and decomposed worms. Excitement and exercise should be avoided for at least a month, followed by gradual return to normal activity. After all adult heartworms are eliminated; another drug must be given to rid the bloodstream of microfilariae, which are not affected by the drug used to kill adult heartworms

Heartworm treatment schedule for the first month after treatment

Week 1        Complete rest, only taken out to go potty and then return to a crate or a small area. 

Week 2        Continue as with week 1.

Week 3         Slow walks on a leash, can be out but minimize excitement    and activity level.

Week 4       Can slowly return to normal activities as long as no side affects were evident.

Side effects of Heartworm Treatments

·          pain, swelling, and tenderness at the injection site or reluctance to move due to pain at injection site

·          coughing

·          depression

·          lethargy

·          lack of appetite

·          fever

·          vomiting

·          excessive drooling

·          panting

·          diarrhea

·          coughing up blood

·          abnormal heart rhythms

·          death.

These side effects could be a response to the drug or the dead worms, if your foster has any of these side effect please contact a member of the board.

A kennel card will be kept on all dogs that enter the rescue.  This section is where all-important information is to be organized about the dog. 

Updating a Kennel Card:

   Sign on the website using your username and password.  Once log on go to available dogs.  Click on the one that is your foster.  When their page comes up, click on edit.  From there you can update any information about your foster.  Make sure to update the foster notes at least every two weeks.  This helps with placing the dog into its new forever home.

Animal Attendance Update

  This is used to show when a dog will be present or not present at an event.  All you need to do is click on the attendance label on the original page.  Once you click on the attendance tab, the modify attendance page will pop up with all events for the next couple of weeks.  Click on the dot that represents what your foster will be attending.  If you are unable to attend an event, please let the board know in advance, so that they can make arrangements to have the dog present.  Then click update attendance.  This will show up on the bottom of your fosters home page.

Animal Journal Update

  Anytime your foster receives vaccines and/or medicines this should be updated.  From their home page, click on journal- a screen will pop up with de-worming, Flea/Tick/ Deworm, medications, miscellaneous, spay/neuter, and vaccinations.  You will need to scroll down to get to the category that you need.  Make sure you are entering it on a blank entry spot.  To submit and save, use your mouse to click on save journal template entries.

Check list for Kennel Card Update

Age: Around 1.6 year

Sex: Male

Breed: Dachshund mix, not neutered

Temperament: Non-aggressive, good with other dogs and people in general.

Behaviors: Will run after birds, squirrels and all other animals, including other dogs. Pulls when walking, but it can be corrected with a gentle leader, a halti or a body harness.  Will cry when left alone and this can lead to separation anxiety. Can be easily corrected by not petting him whenever he is crying and using other tips that I can provide if requested.  

Training: House broken, but since he is not neutered, will mark his new territory the first few days. Introduction to basic sit and come commands has been in placed for the last 2 weeks. Basic crate training needs to be reinforced. Recommendations available if requested.

What he likes: ATTENTION, ATTENTION, ATTENTION, petting and company. He loves long walks and even jogging with you. Loves to sleep in his bed next to you. Likes to fetch and play tug of war with other dogs.  Likes to be in the car and feel the wind in his face. Loves to eat raw meet.

His diet during the last 2 weeks: Toby has been under the Natures Varity natural diet. Kibbles in the morning and raw meet mix with can food in the afternoon. For more information about this food visit: www.naturesvariety.com. He loves variety in his food. Loves cheese and ham.

Recommendations:  Basic Positive Obedience training is highly recommended along with a very strong and positive relationship with his master.  At least 2 or more hours of daily exercise is highly recommended. Natural diet is highly recommended for several reasons; first, the food contamination recall looks like it will never end and these natural foods are not part of the recall; second, will keep him in shape if used as directed; third, will keep him healthy; and last, will give him longevity.  Other suggestions available if requested.

Summary: Toby will be an excellent family member if given the opportunity to spend time and be part of the family. As long as he is not isolated from the family unit, he will be happy to comply and to follow instructions. Use only positive reinforcement since he is very sensible and tender.  He is such a good dog that if the new owner ever decides to surrender him, we will gladly take him back. Remember, dogs are a lifetime commitment and like us, they need affection, food, exercise, training and shelter. In return, you will receive unconditional love!

Prepared by: Ivonne Acevedo — Toby’s foster parent

                       Phone: 813-907-1829, 312-933-2873
Blank Form

Florida Doggie Paws Rescue

Profile

Age:

Sex:

Breed:

Temperament:

Behaviors:

Training:

What he likes:

His diet during the last 2 weeks:

Recommendations: 

Summary:

Prepared by:

                       Phone: 
 

Medication Cost

Bordetella = $2.25 (needles are included)

DA2PP = $2.06 (needles are included)

DA2PL+PV= $2.32 (Needles are included)

Heartgard Plus Chewables = $3.67

Frontline Plus

Dogs/Puppies 0-22lbs = $1.72

Dogs 23-44lbs = $3.44

Dogs 45-88 = $9.43

Dogs 89-132 = $10.33

Ivomec = Average $.25

D-Wormer = $2.70

Capstar = $1.65 (Dogs under 25lbs)

Capstar = $1.89 (Dogs over 25lbs)

Clavamox = $.82

Frontline Plus Dosage (flea prevention)

0-22 lbs = 0.70 ml
22-44 lbs = 1.4 ml
45-88 lbs = 2.7 ml
89-132 lbs = 4.0 ml

Ivomec (Ivermectin) Dosages (heartworm prevention)

Given ORALLY Only!!!                   Do Not Give Ivomec (Ivermectin) to Collies or Shelties!!!!!

A heartworm test given to a puppy 4 month or younger will always test negative.

The gray area is between 4 and 6 month.  They could test negative and then could test positive right afterwards, if they were not on HW prevention from an early age.

HW prevention should start at 8 weeks.  HW prevention medications actually work backwards for 2 months and will kill any little worms.

You won’t get a true result until the puppy reaches 6 months old.

Snap test is the preferred method (also known as an occult test), as opposed to a direct test.  A snap test will show positive and negative results for both adult and baby worms. 

The direct test doesn't test the adults. 
Vaccination Schedule

Puppies

6 weeks - 5-1

9 weeks - 7-1

12 weeks - 7-1

16 weeks - 7-1

Exceptions: 

”¢If a dog weighs less than 5 lbs - never give a 7-1

ӢDachshund under 10 lbs - never give a 7-1

”¢Orphaned puppies - Start as early as 4wks because they aren't

 Getting the immunity from their mom.  If by the next shot they are

 Not 5 lbs, they will get a 5-1.  They will get a 7-1 once they are   

 Over 5 lbs.

”¢All puppies are to have 4 vaccines by - at/around 16 weeks of 

 Age

”¢If we get a puppy mid-schedule.  Start them and follow schedule 

 Every three-week, until 4 shots are given.

”¢If we get a puppy around 14 - 16 (give or take) weeks and they 

 Have never had shots.  Give them a 5-1 immediately, 3 weeks 

 Later they get a 7-1 - By this age they should have at least two   

 shots.

Adult Dogs

If we have an adult dog and have no shot records.  Give them a 5-1; three weeks later they get a booster 7-1
 

This information should be keep on the Kennel Card for your foster.  However, some people also prefer to keep their own record of when a dog was given their HW preventative, Flea and Tick preventatives, and other medicine. 

In the event of an emergency, the board has developed a plan for foster dogs and contact personnel.  In an emergency such as hurricane or a flood, there is no time to drop off so we ask that the foster be taken with you.  You should take food and water along with any other necessary items that maybe need for a dog.  We understand that you will try and fill your vehicle with your own needs but if you could take a foldable crate this might be helpful if you end up at a shelter.  If you are unable to assist with keeping these animals safe, please contact the closest board member or coordinator to arrange pick up of the animals.  Due to our knowledge of what happen with the Katrina animals, we do not feel boarding them is the safest situation from them.  Below we have listed numerous out-of-state people willing to help with communicating with us. 

These people are helping us out by taking calls to helps us keep in contact of where everyone ended up- They will need the fosters name, name of FDPR’s dogs they have with them, where they are, and how we can contract them with further instruction. 

Linda and Joe Misuraca          812-424-1517              Michelle McKone’s Parents

Emergency Foster Check off sheet

q   Any animal medications

q   Foster’s Vaccine Records

q   Foldable crate

q   Water- Min. 2 gallons (should be 1 gallon a day)

q   Food- for at least a week

q   Bowls- 2

q   Leash and collar

q   Rabies tags

Emergency Contact Information Sheet

For out-of state volunteers

CONFLICT OF INTEREST POLICY

Florida Doggie Paws Rescue, Inc.

Article I

Purpose

The purpose of the conflict of interest policy is to protect the interest of Florida Doggie Paws Rescue, Inc. (Organization), when it is contemplating entering into a transaction or arrangement that might benefit the private interest of an officer or director of the organization or might result in a possible of excess benefit transaction.  This policy is intended to supplement but not replace any applicable state and federal laws governing conflict of interest applicable to nonprofit organizations.

Article II

Definitions

1. Interested Person

Any director, principal officer, or member of a committee with governing board delegated powers, which has a direct or indirect financial interest, as defined below, is an interested person.

2. Financial Interest:

A person has a financial interest if the person has, directly or indirectly, through business, investment, or family:

            a.  An ownership or investment interest in any entity with which the Organization has a transaction or arrangement,

            b.  A compensation arrangement with the Organization or with any entity or individual with which the Organization has a transaction or arrangement, or

            c.  A potential ownership or investment interest in, or compensation arrangement with, any entity or individual with which the Organization is negotiating a transaction or arrangement.

Compensation includes direct and indirect remuneration as well as gifts or favors that are not insubstantial.

A financial interest is not necessarily a conflict of interest.  Under Article III, Section 2, a person who has a financial interest may have a conflict of interest only if the appropriate governing board or committee decides that a conflict of interest exists.

Article III

Procedures

1. Duty to Disclose

In connection with any actual or possible conflict of interest, an interested person must disclose the existence of the financial interest and be given the opportunity to disclose all material facts to the directors and members of committees with governing board-delegated powers considering the proposed transaction or arrangement.

2. Determining Whether a Conflict of Interest Exists

After disclosure of the financial interest and all material facts, and after any discussion with the interested person, he/she shall leave the governing board or committee meeting while the determination of a conflict of interest is discussed and voted upon.  The remaining board or committee members shall decide if a conflict of interest exists.

3. Procedures for Addressing the Conflict of Interest

1. An interested person may make a presentation at the governing board or committee meeting, but after the presentation, he/she shall leave the meeting during the discussion of, and the vote on, the transaction or arrangement involving the possible conflict of interest.
2. The chairperson of the governing board or committee shall, if appropriate, appoint a disinterested person or committee to investigate alternatives to the proposed transaction or arrangement.
3. After exercising due diligence, the governing board or committee shall determine whether the Organization can obtain with reasonable efforts a more advantageous transaction or arrangement from a person or entity that would not give rise to a conflict of interest.
4. If a more advantageous transaction or arrangement is not reasonably possible under the circumstances not producing a conflict of interest, the governing board or committee shall determine by a majority vote of the disinterested directors whether the transaction or arrangement is in the Organization’s best interest, for its own benefit, and whether it is fair and reasonable.  In conformity with the above determination it shall make its decision as to whether to enter into the transaction or arrangement.

4. Violations of the Conflicts of Interest Policy

1. If the governing board or committee has reasonable cause to believe a member has failed to disclose the actual or possible conflicts of interest, it shall inform the member of the basis for such belief and afford the member an opportunity to explain the alleged failure to disclose.
2. If, after hearing the member’s response and after making further investigation as warranted by the circumstances, the governing board or committee determines the member has failed to disclose an actual or possible conflict of interest, it shall take appropriate disciplinary and corrective action.

Article IV

Records of Proceedings

The minutes of the governing board and all committees with board delegated powers shall contain:

1. The names of the persons who disclosed or otherwise were found to have a financial interest in connection with an actual or possible conflict of interest, the nature of the financial interest, any action taken to determine whether a conflict of interest was present, and the governing board’s or committee’s decision as to whether a conflict of interest in fact existed.
2. The names of the persons who were present for discussions and votes relating to the transaction or arrangement, the content of the discussion, including any alternatives to the proposed transaction or arrangement, and a record of any notes taken in connection with the proceedings.

Article V

Compensation

1. A voting member of the governing board who receives compensation, directly or indirectly, from the Organization for services is precluded from voting on matters pertaining to that member’s compensation.
2. A voting member of any committee whose jurisdiction includes compensation matters and who receives compensation, directly or indirectly, from the Organization for services is precluded from voting on matters pertaining to that member’s compensation.
3. No voting member of the governing board or any committee whose jurisdiction includes compensation matters and who receives compensation, directly or indirectly, from the Organization, either individually or collectively, is prohibited from providing information to any committee regarding compensation.

Article VI

Annual Statement

Each director, principal officer and member of a committee with governing board-delegated powers shall annually sign a statement, which affirms such person:

1. Has received a copy of the conflicts of interest policy.
2. Has read and understands the policy.
3. Has agreed to comply with the policy, and
4. Understands the Organization is charitable and in order to maintain its federal tax exemption it must engage primarily in activities, which accomplish one or more of its tax-exempt purposes.

Article VII

Periodic Reviews

To ensure the Organization operates in a manner consistent with charitable purposes and does not engage in activities that could jeopardize its tax-exempt status, periodic reviews shall be conducted.  The periodic reviews shall, at a minimum, include the following subjects:

1. Whether compensation arrangements and benefits are reasonable, based on competent survey information, and the result of arm’s length bargaining.
2. Whether partnerships, joint ventures, and arrangements with management organizations conform to the Organization’s written policies, are properly recorded, reflect reasonable investment or payments for goods and services, further charitable purposes and do not result in inurement, impermissible private benefit or in an excess benefit transaction.

Article VIII

Use of Outside Experts

When conducting the periodic reviews as provided for in Article VII, the Organization, but need not, use outside advisors.  If outside experts are used, their use shall not relieve the governing board of its responsibility for ensuring periodic reviews are conducted. 

LIABILITY STATEMENT

As a foster for Florida Doggie Paws Rescue, Inc., I understand that the Rescue retains the ownership, and thus, the fiscal responsibility of the dog that I am fostering.  Therefore, should my foster dog become ill or injured, or require any other emergency medical care, I must make a reasonable attempt to contact a Board member, beginning with the Dog Intake Coordinator and/or the President of Florida Doggie Paws, to notify the Rescue of the dog’s health status and need for care. 

If I choose to take the dog for veterinary care without prior approval of any Board member, and the event is later deemed non-life threatening to the animal, I understand that I may incur the expenses for the dog’s treatment and medications. 

Also, prior to accepting medications from the veterinarian, I further agree to call the Dog Intake Coordinator to determine which medicines the Rescue already has in stock and to arrange to receive medication through the Rescue whenever possible.

I agree to make a good faith effort to adhere to the policy of prior notification in an emergency and do understand that failure to follow this organizational policy may result in my fiscal responsibility for any unauthorized care.

I also acknowledge that I have received training as a volunteer and received a volunteer manual to notify me of Rescue policies.

_____________________________ (Foster)                          ____________ (Date)

_______________________(Volunteer Coordinator)           ____________ (Date)